Holy Week!

On Palm Sunday I went to the Quiapo Market which was full of vendors selling everything - talismans and candles for prayers, street foods, fruits, vegetables, single cigarettes, kitschy religious souvenirs, and all sorts of potions with powers ranging from preventing hair loss to inducing abortions. Though on Sunday the market was dominated by candle stands and colorful palm creations in honor of the day.

The market is right next to Quiapo church, which is known for the "Black Nazarene" statue which is highly revered. It was hard to tell where the church began and market ended. Hundreds of People were crammed in the enormous church, and the amplified mass sounds were spilling out the side doors windows. People were all carrying intricately arranged palm leaves and singing. I said a prayer in the shrine of the holy gifts (at least I think that was what it was). Like most of the churches here, you feel like you are outside with a roof. There are many doors and windows to let the air flow. Western churches with the front doors, and maybe a side exit or two, are not exactly wise in this weather.

The smells were quite something. There is a scene in the movie with "Room with a View" where Judi Dench and Maggie Smith walk through Florence, and Dame Judi enthusiastically raves about the sights, sounds and smells of the city. Maggie Smith nods and politely smiles, and then tries to subtly cover her nose with her handkerchief. In Quiapo I felt like Maggie Smith with my friend Tita playing the Judi Dench role. I'm doing my best to really experience life here, and not simply going to American chains and high end malls - but sometimes I'm a bit overwhelmed by sights and smells (the point of travelling, I suppose!).

We then went to see the Manila Cathedral. That has more of a gothic western feel... it was built in the 1950s, and is the eighth Cathedral built in the exact same spot due to various war bombings, earthquakes and fires. Manila is one of those cities that is always being re-built. I wonder if some of the casual approach to maintenance of city streets and buildings is due to this phenomenon.

After that we went to see Intramuros, which is the remnants of the Spanish city that used to be the core of Manila. It was close to the museums I went to last week. We scaled the walls, and walked til after sunset. It was magical. Tita's son Miguel took artsy photos while she and I shared a cigarette. Imabelle joined up with us too. We had dinner and went home. It was a long day.

Manila is quiet right now. I've been told that many residents leave town for family gatherings this week. Judging by the lack of usual smog, this is true. The streets are empty and a lot of places are closed.

In other news, my friend Joe who encouraged me to come here arrived from Guam. He is a lot of fun and I am so grateful to him.

I'd also like to take a moment to laud the Filipino doctors and nurses I have met. More to come about that. I think the US could learn a lot from the accessibility of doctors here.